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Wednesday, November 19, 2008

A Tale of Two Conversions

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Image:Calicut 1572.jpg

The birth of the City of Calicut is associated with a religious conversion. Legend has it that the last Cheraman Perumal (the ruler of Kerala) partitioned his kigdom among his dependents who were probably already feudatories. He then did the unthinkable - followed some Arab traders to the Holy Land of Mecca, embraced Islam and spent the last years of his life in obscurity.


One of the descendants – who was apparently the favourite of the Perumal – was the Governor of Ernad and he had already distinguished himself by leading the Chera army to victory. This warrior-hero, named Mana Vikrama, was gifted the land and sea coast lying to the north west of his territory. He later annexed the kingdom of Porlathiri to the south of the Kallai River and established his rule over the area covered by the present Calicut city.


Historians dispute the date of conversion (A.D.856) although the fact of conversion could be true. Modern scholarship tends to put the date of the last Perumal, Rama Kulashekhara at 1089-c 1102 A.D. They also agree that the legend of Malik Dinar may be historical, but the dates may have to be advanced. Thus, it is now accepted that the last Perumal might have abdicated, embraced Islam and proceeded on a pilgrimage to Mecca around the 12th Century.


Why did he convert to Islam? The tradition that the Perumal who was converted was a contemporary of Prophet Mohammed, explains that the conversion came about after the Perumal saw some signs (including the parting of the moon) and was convinced about the greatness of the Prophet. Some stories even mention that the two had met. As we noted above, the evidence seems to suggest that the date of conversion was much later, sometime in the 12th Century.


Strangely, I have not come across any new explanation being offered by historians for the conversion, even though they are more or less convinced that the conversion took place much later than what has been suggested in the tradition. 


It would appear that the pro-Muslim  tradition of the last Perumal was continued by the first generations of Zamorins – the grant by a Zamorin of land for building the Muccunti Mosque, the appointment of a Muslim as the chief of Calicut Port (Shah Bunder) and the honour given to Muslim traders. Ibn Batuta (1342-47 A.D.) noted that Muslim merchants had their houses in all districts and were greatly respected. These indicate that it was the state policy to win the confidence of the Arab and Muslim traders who were the instruments for bringing prosperity to the shores of Calicut. If so, was the conversion by the Perumal also part of trade promotion? Did he seek to instil confidence in the Muslim traders that the new port city of Calicut would welcome them cordially and treat them on preferential terms? Trade was virtually in the hands of the Muslims during those days, as the Romans, Venetians and Genoese had departed. Calicut, after all, had to compete with Kodungalloor which was a congenial destination for the Muslim traders and had even hosted the first Mosque in Asia.



It is tempting to propose that Perumal's conversion was meant to increase the volume of trade coming to Calicut and was part of deliberate state policy. Particularly, as we seem to have a parallel in the history of Malacca. Parameswara, a young Prince from Palembang (Java) had to flee to the island of Temasek driven by the Javan overlords in the late 12th century. He established a small colony of orang laut (boat people) on this island which he named Singhapura ( the present Singapore). He was not allowed to live in peace in Singapore by his powerful neighbour – the Ayuthia Kingdom of Thailand. He fled once again, this time to Bertam, on the tip of the Malayan archipelago and set up a habitation in a fishing village which he named Malacca in 1396. The place slowly grew into a busy entreport, visited by the Arab and Muslim traders. Like Calicut, Malacca was also on the monsoon route to China and became a key link in the trade in spices.



Parameswara, a Hindu from the Srivijaya dynasty, decided to embrace Islam in 1400, supposedly under the influence of Tamil Muslim traders (Rowthers and Marakkars), as he found that the majority of the residents and visitors of the by now busy port was Muslim. The Tamil traders then arranged a marriage alliance for him with a Muslim Princess of Pasai ( near Aceh) and Parameswara also took on a new name – Iskander Shah. Under the patronage of Chinese, Tamil and Gujarati merchants, Malacca prospered as a famous port where more than 80 languages were being spoken. 


Much of this glory is attributed to the clever move on the part of Parameswara to embrace the 'religion of foreign trade', as much as to the protection that was offered by the Ming dynasty whose most visible symbol was the frequently visiting Zheng He. Interestingly, the chief of port operations of Malacca was also a Muslim and his designation was Shah Bunder, as in Calicut.


Perhaps, there is a parallel between Perumal's conversion and Parameswara's conversion. Trade took precedence over religion, as demonstrated by the Zamorin who had no hesitation in allowing the entry of Vasco da Gama into the Durga Shrines at Putthoor and Varakkal, without even bothering to clarify that the idol that he was worshipping was not that of Mother Mary. Zamorin's instruction that every fisherman family should provide one male for conversion to Islam in order to ensure supply of maritime manpower is another instance of expediency above faith.


The conversions could also have been part of a global wave of spread of Islam in the backdrop of the on-going Crusades. The same Tamil Muslim trader community who are supposed to have converted Parameswara in Malacca might have influenced the Zamorin, as part of an Islamisation wave.


Enough questions for research??





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Thursday, November 6, 2008

Soaps for the Viceroy - made in Calicut!

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It was early morning on January 4, 1932. Gandhiji had just announced the civil disobedience movement in view of the failure of the round table conference. He had cancelled his programme of taking the night train from Bombay. This had upset the plan of the Bombay Police to pick him up quietly from some small wayside railway station and whisk him away to Poona.

Earl of Willingdon, the Viceroy had ordered the arrests of Gandhi, Patel and Nehru to prevent them from mobilising the satyagrahis. He had spent a sleepless night, worried about the reaction of the people to the mass arrests. He was relieved to receive the early morning message from Mr. Wilson, the Police commissioner of Bombay that Gandhiji had been picked up and sent to Yerwada jail without any event. The Viceroy could now relax, and he left the office for his inner chamber of the sprawling Viceroy's House for a refreshing bath with a soap made specially for him in ----- Calicut! 


Fiction? Not really. The story of the Kerala Soap Institute which used to supply soaps to the Viceroy, among other dignitaries, has been brought out by one of Calicut's brilliant amateur historians, Advocate Seluraj. Published in the City Supplement (Nagaram) of Mathrubhumi dated 6 Nov 08, the story traces the rise and fall of one of the leading industrial units of Calicut, the Kerala Soap Institute (1914-2001 RIP)


Calicut was introduced to modern industries through the Basel Evangelical Mission's magnificent effort to bring in a new culture among their converts. BEM established a chain of tile works and textile mills in Calicut, Kodakkal, Vaniamkulam, Tellicherry, Quilandy etc. Their effort spanned a period of 80 years from 1834 to 1914. When the first World War started in 1914, these units were taken over as enemy property. (Please read the fascinating story of BEM and Commonwealth Trust in Jayaprakash Raghaviah's interesting presentation here)


It may be a co-incidence – the Kerala Soap Institute was set up by some enterprising Englishmen, in the same year that BEM institutions folded up, in the heart of what was known as the English Quarters, on Evans Road (the present Gandhi Road). As one crosses the rail over bridge from Christian College to the beach, one encounters on the right a large compound with wild overgrowth, a broken iron gate, dilapidated buildings and a heap of waste. This was the Kerala Soap Institute. It used to be a busy factory with a long row of vehicles waiting to get their cargo of soaps, washing powder and shark liver oil. Thousands of schoolchildren in and around Calicut would remember the mandatory excursion to the soap factory from where they would return with their trophy - a sample sandal soap or sometimes only the waste soap chips. The ice candy from the street vendor never tasted so good!


The factory was shifted to this new location in 1918. How the sprawling 4 acre land was acquired is itself a story of perseverance and dedication of Mr. F.A.Nicholson, the Director of Fisheries of Malabar who was entrusted with the task. The new enlarged factory was called an Experimental and Demonstration Unit to impart training in soap making, apart from making quality soaps.


It was here that the famous 'Willingdon Soaps' were being made. As Willingdon was the Viceroy of India between 1931 and 1936, he must have authorised the use of his name and insignia during this period. The carton has the legend : “By Appointment to His Excellency the Earl of Willingdon , Viceroy and Governor General of India”. It also carried the vice-regal insignia and a picture of the Viceroy's House (the present Rashtrapati Bhavan) with the Union Jack fluttering majestically! Thus it came about that Malabar was supplying soap to wash the sins of someone who, as the Governor of Madras in 1921, had presided over the atrocities which culminated in the Malabar Wagon Tragedy.


The KSI continued as a Madras Government unit till 1956, reportedly supplying soaps to the President of India after 1947. But, its days of glory – when renowned oil technologists like K.S. Murti were serving the factory – had ended by then. The factory was re-organised as a Company in 1964 and was famous for some of its products like Washwell soaps and soap chips, Kerala Sandal, Kerala Coal Tar (Carbolic Soap), Shark Liver Oil (for the brave!) and Adamin Fish Oil Capsules for the rest. It also had a hydrogenation unit making Sudha vanaspati and Vimala refined oil.


In 1975, production was shifted to the Italian plant set up in West Hill. Only the administrative and marketing units continued on Gandhi Road. The plant had, however, to be closed down soon due to financial problems. There was an attempt to revive the unit in 1996 but it finally folded up in 2001, handing over the vast property to reptiles, foxes and rodents who peacefully cohabit with the drug peddlers and bootleggers! The State Government has many proposals – the latest being to construct a Convention Complex - but real estates sharks seem to have other plans!!

Reference:

Adv. Seluraj's article in Nagaram (Mathrubhumi) dated 6th November 2008 .

Photo: courtesy The Mathrubhumi





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Saturday, November 1, 2008

Cosmopolitan Calicut

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photo: courtesy www.hinduonnet.com
Cosmopolitan Calicut


How many communities are there in Calicut, apart from the local Hindu, Muslim and Christians ? As a busy trading centre and entrepot of renown during the medieval times, Calicut naturally attracted various nationalities. Many of them have made Calicut their homes or have left indelible impressions. These include not only Europeans and Arabs but even local traders from Multan, Punjab, Gujarat and other places. All of them have contributed to the rich tapestry that makes up Malabar culture. Many of them have vanished without a trace; but several groups continue to live here and contribute to the cultural milieu which gives Calicut its distinct flavour.


Who are these and how many such micro groups are there in Calicut? No one seems to have made an attempt to chronicle their lives till K. Mohan, a cultural-historical tour guide and the co-ordinator of the Calicut Chapter of INTACH (yathramohan@hotmail.com) has attempted the task. In an inspiring talk (at the monthly meeting of Calicut Heritage Forum ( http://calicutheritageforum.googlepages.com ) based on his forthcoming book on Cosmopolitan Calicut, Mohan listed an incredible list of 32 communities which have come from outside (or are the progeny of outside visitors/traders) but have made Calicut their homes. Some like the Eurasians have limited presence – the Dutch and Anglo-Indian families have migrated but some Portuguese-related families are still present as copper smiths. The Arabs – mostly from Yemen (Hadramouth) but some from Saudi Arabia – are represented by the Thangal families.


There is a Nepali presence by people who may have been brought here as guards. (Premnath, a member of the Forum thought otherwise – according to him some of them are descendants of the Gurkha brigade and the community's contribution to Malayalam language is in the description of any short person in parts of Malabar as 'kurukkas' – a reference to the short Gurkha!)


There are Sindhis, some of whom came as traders, but many others as evacuees from Sind, Pakistan, after the partition. They have a temple on the Silk Street ( near Bombay Restaurant).


There are Hindu and Jain Gujaratis, a vibrant community which has managed to assimilate fully with the local culture, while retaining their identity. They maintain both Hindu and Jain temples. Originally copra traders, they are now into all forms of wholesale and retail trade, apart from the services sector. A third group of Gujaratis are the Kutchi Memons who were perhaps the first group to have come from Gujarat. Their speciality is wholesale trade of grain and sugar. Mohan mentions some interesting snippets of their trade practices: they send their children to fellow traders within the community as apprentices to learn discipline as much as trade. Another trait of this community is that while they are very stingy on giving donations, they are liberal with loans!


The few Maharashtrian families – reported to have fled Ratnagiri to avoid some persecution – are a closed community, generally keeping to themselves. Many have migrated to Bombay. The Parsees came to Calicut originally as timber traders. They maintain a Fire Temple ( the Parsi Anjuman Baug in the busy Sweetmeat Street - see picture above) which is the only such temple in Kerala. Worship is not regular, as no priest from the community is available. The Parsis of Calicut are today represented by the seven member family of Darius Marshall, who is an institution by himself.


A small Goan community exists in Calicut, engaged as copper smiths or goldsmiths.


An interesting linguistic group is the Telugu speaking population which consists of the Dakhani Muslims who are small in number and the Chakkiliyas (cobblers) who migrated from Vijayanagar empire. They were brought here as expert makers of saddles, sword sheaths and shoes but have today ended up as street-corner cobblers and shoe-shines, speaking a weird language, probably related to Telugu.


Naickers who speak a mixture of Tamil and Telugu are another colourful community. They claim to be Yadavas and their primary occupation is buffalo-rearing. They have a boisterous wedding function which ends up in a drunken brawl with the drunken bridegroom swearing at the bride and making her promise that she would implicitly and without questioning obey him!


The Naidus, a small trading community, is also present in Calicut. There are 11 different types of Chetties (like Nattukottai, Kasi etc) who deal in hardware, bangles etc. They are superstitious about dealing in perishable/ breakable items such as ink etc.


Tamil groups are also numerous. We have the Nadars who are expert traders. They have a belief that whatever they earn in Calicut is spent here itself. This is expressed in their saying in Tamil :Kallikkottai kaashu Kallai paalam thaandaathu – money earned in Calicut will not cross Kallai bridge !! There is a small group of Nadar Christians who are Protestants. The CSI Church in Chalapuram ( on Madhavan Nair Road ) even has a special service in Tamil for this community!


In the early 1930s, the Calicut Municipality was in a fix. They had popularised individual latrines as part of the move to discourage open defecation. But, these new latrines required someone to carry the night soil. Then, as now, no Malayali would do such unclean jobs! So a delegation from the Municipality went to Erode and Salem in Tamil Nadu and managed to recruit persons from the Paraya community with promise of jobs. They were also expert in making baskets and other items from bamboo. There were small colonies of Parayas in many wards of the municipality. But after the ban on carrying night soil, they have diversified. Some have inherited the cleaning jobs in the Corporation and others have joined the Kudumbashree movement which is collecting domestic garbage for centralised treatment at Njelianparambu.


The Tamil-speaking Tulukkans who came from South Arcot must have originally come with Tipu's forces. Like the Ravuthers of Cormandel, they were expert horsemen.


The barbers of Calicut have all come from Tanjore district. The new generation of Professors (they write Pro. for proprietor!) Pachamuthu and Raju continue the profession with modern men's beauty parlours.


Kannada speaking Pattanis originally came as contractors (probably to Tipu and company) They have come from Srirangapatana and should not be confused with the Afghan Pathans. The pattan in Pattani is the short form of Sriranga-pattana! They still have a presence behind the Paragon Hotel where, being Shia muslims, they celebrate the Muharram with a Tazia procession. (The place is called Kootarappura, where they used to have bloodier observance of Muharram in olden times). They were also allowed to conduct Pulikkali during Muharram.


Another Karnataka group is the Bhatkal muslims (called Vattakkoolis in Malayalam) who are shrewd businessmen. Konkanis from Mangalore were brought in as expert tailors. (Intervening in the discussion, MGS remarked that there were no tailors in Calicut as tailoring was not required because mundu was woven as such and women did not wear any upper garments – so much so that when the Zamorin appointed a Tailor, he was given a title Thunnara Chakravarty (Emperor among Tailors)!


The Kalasis of Beypore probably came from Karnataka (there is a Kalasipalayam in Bangalore) but now lend glory to Calicut owing to their skill in handling heavy and unwieldy weights. (This needs further research)


Chetties were brought from Cochin to make Pappadums and Nazranis came from Trichur as retail traders ( they used to close shop on Saturday and travel to their home towns for the Sunday service) The Kumbharas (potters) came with Tipu and settled in Nilambur where good quality clay was abundant. There is a small community of Vellamkoris (literally, those who draw water) from Kasragod whose only job was to draw water from Mananchira tank and carry it on shoulder to the homes of Konkanis.


What fantastic variety! Thank you, Mohan.

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